Category: Uncategorized

  • Why the Internet Can’t Replace a Watch Show

    Why the Internet Can’t Replace a Watch Show

    I debated going to my first-ever watch show, which also happened to be the first Montreal Timepiece Show. I didn’t have much to base my decision on other than the list of brands sponsoring the event, half of which I didn’t recognize. Most of them were microbrands, which have never really been my thing. Still, the chance to get my hands on watches I’d never see at my local AD was tempting.

    With a 30 bar dive watch on my wrist, I dove headfirst into my laptop, looking up each brand I didn’t know, exploring everything from price and movement to heritage. Yes, even heritage, for a microbrand. Give me something—anything—even if it’s as lackluster as the founder’s great-great-grandfather taking a hike on some Swiss mountain over a century ago. If it has a backstory involving Switzerland, nature, and physical exertion, it just might have my money. Or so I thought.

    Speaking of money, the tickets were free, so what the heck.

    Less than a minute into the showroom, I was reminded of the same dilemma I’d had before walking through the doors. The very first booth belonged to a Montreal-based watchmaker showcasing a dial made of leather. I “oooh”‘d and “aaah”‘d as I ran my fingers across the quilted Italian lambskin. Don’t get me wrong—the watch was cool. Just not $2,000 cool.

    Dropping two grand on an unknown brand had always been a hard sell, especially when the same money could buy me an entry-level luxury watch from the usual suspects. Yes, I know—economics of scale and all—but for that kind of money, I want to be reassured. What am I paying for? What movement does it use? Does it have a story? Maybe it’s unfair to expect so much from a microbrand, but I’ve been coddled by Swiss and Japanese multinationals for far too long. I hoped to God (the venue was a repurposed church, after all) this wasn’t a sign of things to come. As I wandered from booth to booth, however, I slowly realized I’d been judging these watches by the wrong criteria.

    Funny enough, I had no idea Paulin would be exhibiting. I’d been eyeing their Modul B Quartz for months, so finally getting to try it on felt like a dream come true. At first, I was underwhelmed by how light it felt. Granted, I’d just taken a hefty 14 mm-thick Marathon diver for a spin, but everything else about the Modul B Quartz just… made me happy: the vibrant yet unconventional colors, the bespoke in-house typeface, the minute hand cutout landing perfectly above each hour marker, and perhaps my favorite detail of all, the quartz movement displayed through an exhibition caseback. 

    At that point, price, movement, and heritage all belonged to a version of me that had faded away about twenty booths ago. For the first time, I found myself appreciating the little things no one else was doing, whether it was Paulin’s postmodernist “Wim” font, Isotope’s “hyperbolic paraboloid” crystal, Worden’s brutalist-inspired case, or, heck, even José Cermeño’s hand-stitched leather dial.

    My coup de cœur of the Montreal Timepiece Show: the Paulin Modul B Quartz. Pro tip: wear your own watch on the opposite wrist so you can try every other watch on your preferred one. I learned that one a little late.

    In the end, I didn’t leave with the Modul B Quartz—anticlimactic, I know—but only because they weren’t selling it on site. Still, I came out of there with something you couldn’t buy: I learned that all the specs and pics in the world won’t do a watch justice. You can spend countless hours watching Teddy Baldassare and reading Hodinkee or Fratello, but none of that can tell you what a watch does to you once it’s on your wrist.

    But the watches were only part of the experience.

    When you’re physically there, talking directly to the founder, designer, janitor—whoever—you’ll hear stories and details you’d never get researching online, like how I discovered that Paulin engraves a maple leaf on the Modul B Quartz caseback as a Canadian exclusivité, pardon my French, for Roldorf & Co.—the only authorized Paulin dealer in Canada—which assembles them in Vancouver. I know, it’s not “Italian lambskin” level cool, but to me it is.

    Little details like that don’t just bring you closer to the watch itself—they bring you closer to the community behind it. The exhibitors were knowledgeable, welcoming, and genuinely happy to talk watches. Event goers were equally easy-going and respectful, with the exception of a small elderly Russian woman who shoved me, cut in line, and I’m pretty sure did the same to several other people.

    What surprised me most, though, was just how much trust there was on both sides of the booth. You could simply pick up any watch without asking permission. Well, almost. There is, of course, some etiquette to follow: approach the booth, take in the collection, smile at the exhibitor, and reach for the watch that catches your eye. It goes without saying that your behavior should resemble that of a civilized human being instead of a certain babushka. 

    Otherwise, you’re free to try on as many watches as you like—something your local AD would never entertain. Instead, they’ll pull out one watch at a time, usually from the same old mainstream brands everyone else seems to carry. Yawn. Just kidding. I haven’t become a microbrand hipster. Yet. But you get my point: in a single afternoon, you can turn months of online research into firsthand—or should I say, firstwrist—experience.

    So, if you’re debating whether to go to a watch show, do yourself a favor and go. Some watches simply have to be met. If you’re like me, you may think you know a watch based on its price, movement, and heritage, but until you’ve seen it, held it, and worn it, you don’t really know it at all.

  • Not All Homages Are Created Equal

    Not All Homages Are Created Equal

    A previous version of me would cringe at the sight of a homage wristcheck. I couldn’t help but think, you poor thing. Now I think, you poor thing—who did this to you? Because the “who” behind a homage makes a difference. At least to me.

    There’s no denying that watch culture treats homages as an unwanted guest. And for good reason. No originality. No craft. No heritage. Who would make such a thing, let alone buy it? The thought alone used to send shivers down my spine. And when a homage targets something sacred (which it almost always does), especially a watch as sacred as the Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch, well, now you’re just asking for trouble.

    Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch. Prestige. History. NASA-certified legitimacy. You could say… it’s out of this world.

    For the record, I don’t own a Moonwatch. But I was lucky enough to be graced with its presence for some time, thanks to a former colleague who wore it as his daily. Imagine that. Now imagine this: I held it. Once. He even let me try it on. And I have to admit, it really does have its own gravitational pull. I couldn’t help but stare at it, and rudely so. But I didn’t care. Just as I don’t care to ever own one. Am I a better person for it? Probably.

    Still, even I have to ask: who in their right mind would dare clone the Moonwatch? A watch with heritage rooted in spaceflight, NASA testing, and human achievement? Ha! You can’t just copy that. There’s no shortcut on this cislunar voyage! And yet, that’s exactly what the MoonSwatch did.

    MoonSwatch Mission to Mars. Plastic. Quartz. Bright colors. Crowds lined up outside malls to get this hunk of… bioceramic.

    If you thought double-wristing was fun, try double branding. OMEGA x SWATCH. Same parent company. Completely different cultures. Two Swiss powerhouses coming together to defy the laws of loyalty. 

    On one side, you have the Speedy gatekeepers heaving at the sight of their holy grail getting the cereal-box-toy treatment. On the other, you have aspiring watch enthusiasts enjoying Omega’s flagship model as part of a complete homage: same case shape, same subdial layout, same tachymeter typography—dot over ninety included. All of it at a fraction of the price.

    Just like that, the homage debate crumbled faster than the MoonSwatch’s bioceramic pushers. Because suddenly, you no longer needed to drop a whopping $8,000 to enjoy a piece of lunar legacy. Then again, maybe you never really did. After all, one notorious brand of haute horologie has been manufacturing its own “inspired” version of the Speedmaster for years.

    Pagani Design PD-1701. It has a date complication. *Laughs in snob.*

    Enter the Pagani Design PD-1701. Sure, it’s got a measly 40mm diameter compared to the Moonwatch’s girthy 42mm. It lacks those caved-in subdials reminiscent of the moon craters you’ll never walk on. And yes, it has a date complication, which one could argue is actually practical. But most importantly, if you squint hard enough, you might convince yourself you’re wearing the real deal. And for a steal, too: $163.79. An oddly specific, yet very reasonable price to pay for an illusion.

    But wait. It gets better. On paper, this Chinese homage offers an even more compelling package when compared to the MoonSwatch.

    Also called Pagani Design PD-1701. The name is as unique as the watch itself. What do you expect from a homage of… a homage.

    For the same money, the P. Diddy-1701 MoonSwatch homage gives you a meca-quartz movement, a steel case and bracelet, and sapphire crystal. Meanwhile, the MoonSwatch sets you back $285 for a basic quartz movement, a plastic—sorry, bioceramic—case (I’ll get it right eventually), biosourced glass (got it!), and a cheap strap that is almost universally hated. Ouch.

    Despite all that, the Pagani Design homages suffer from one fatal flaw. They lack the one thing that propelled the MoonSwatch to stardom: Omega’s stamped seal of approval. And that’s what this really comes down to. One has permission. The other doesn’t. One is a playful, official homage with Omega’s blessing. The other is a cheap Chinese knockoff. That’s the premium you’re paying for. One small step for aspiring watch enthusiasts. One giant leap for Swatch Group.

    So when I asked earlier who did this to you, that’s what I meant. Because if Omega does it, it’s okay. It’s sanctioned by the highest authorities in Swiss watchmaking. If Pagani Design does it, it becomes a close encounter of the turd kind.

    But hey, here’s the thing Pagani Design and its fellow offending comrades have going for them: they broaden access to joy. And that counts for something. I have no doubt enthusiasts know exactly what they’re wearing. They’re not flexing. They’re not faking. They’re just appreciating—in their own way. And that’s fine by me. 

    We’re all guilty of buying into illusions anyway. I’m a marketer; I’d know. And I’d be lying if I said I didn’t love every bit of it. When a watch has heritage, we buy the story. And that’s okay. It’s fun. Just as some buy into the illusion that Pagani is Omega, others buy into the illusion that man, and by extension the Speedmaster, went to the moon. But as they say—and by they, I mean me—the bigger the illusion, the bigger the price tag. To quote Voltaire: “Illusion is the first of all pleasures.” 

    Some illusions just cost more than others.

  • More Women Should Wear Watches

    More Women Should Wear Watches

    I’m not just a watch junkie. I’m a watch pusher. Case in point: read the title again.

    It’s pretty bad, I admit. Like you, I love watches. I have this unrelenting need to read more, watch more (pun intended), and—dare I say—see more. That is, see more watches on more wrists.

    I spend a great deal of my idle time on WatchCrunch, an oddly satisfying app for watch enthusiasts where men share pictures of their six- to seven-inch wrists. That’s the average, anyway. I should specify that these wrists have watches on them, because that’s the point. I should also specify that my wrist is a very respectable six inches and one full quarter.

    Now, as much as I would love to see this hobby exclusive to men (it’s a boy’s club, okay?), I also want to see more of these watches on women, for reasons beyond convincing myself that this isn’t a gay pastime. But I digress.

    More women should wear watches because it’s fun. Well, for me anyway. But I think many of you will relate: it’s not enough for me to enjoy this addiction on my own. I want others to enjoy it with me. Is that selfish? I don’t know. But if women don’t participate, that’s 50% of the population missing out right there.

    What can I say, I really enjoy watching others wear watches. So much, in fact, that the next step in this totally rational obsession of mine was to put a watch on the very woman I live with—and what was once wristful thinking is now a daily pleasure.

    When I tally up the numbers from last year, for every watch I bought myself (two), I bought one for her. And in the process, I observed something fascinating: whereas men can easily be shamed into buying watches, women shockingly need convincing. Unless I’m being outsmarted—which seems increasingly likely—I couldn’t persuade my wife to buy herself a watch under my snobby supervision. So, I bought it for her instead.

    Skagen Signatur Lille Slim. She picks, I buy. Well played, wifey. Well played.

    Now, she’s either playing 4D chess with me or just doesn’t care as much as I do, but either way, I see this as a win-win, because it’s sexy.

    Okay, you’re probably thinking I’m being selfish again, but that’s one heck of a compliment, no?! Some might argue I’m objectifying, but the fact is, I’m being objective: women just look good with watches. Especially mine. Watches bestow upon women, just as they bestow upon men, a certain… je ne sais quoi. An air de confiance. A bli bli blou blon bla.

    Photo of a woman ‘avec’ and ‘sans’ watch. The winner is very clear. Also, start learning French.

    Women are already predisposed to wearing an assortment of metals on their wrists, so why not throw on something that’s actually practical? Energy crystals don’t count. Sorry.

    Unfortunately, somewhere along the way between the turn of the 20th century and now, we kind of lost that. We’ve strayed from what watches started out as: stylish accessories for women, a role popularized by Cartier. Imagine that.

    But just as man’s gaze shifted from the female ankle to the female wrist—Victorian erotic norms be damned—the market gradually forgot its origin story and pivoted hard in the decades that followed.

    The result? Women now have a significantly narrower selection of watches to choose from—and it doesn’t just suck for them, it also sucks for husby when he’s trying to buy a damn present. And holy jumping watch hour, was it tough to find a watch for wifey last Christmas. Granted, my wife’s a tad picky, so that didn’t help. Regardless, in my search for her “go anywhere, do anything” watch, I came to the alarming realization that the selection for women’s watches sucks big time. To be fair, I’m even pickier myself. I was searching for something that was:

    • very her (aww!);
    • not too expensive (don’t tell her that);
    • quartz (stop judging).

    But most importantly, it had to be made by a reputable brand. A brand with heritage. A brand that handcrafts every one of its time-telling pieces in the swissiest Alps known to man—in spirit, anyway. In other words, none of that cheap mall-brand fashion crap. Noooooo sirree! Her watch now signals my taste. My reputation. I can’t imagine a fellow connoisseur outing me as a horological novice over my better half’s poorly adorned wrist. I’ve worked too long to be anything other than the refined, sophisticated Baldassare I am today. So, I got her this:

    Tissot Classic Dream, appropriately named, since she’s my dream lady. Score!!!

    All this to say, more women participating in the watch-buying frenzy would mean more market share and, by extension, more choice. So where do men fit into all this? Be more like Abraham-Louis Breguet. In 1810, he created what’s often cited as the first true wristwatch, designed unapologetically for a woman. What a guy.

    Fortunately, though, you don’t have to invent anything. Just buy your woman a watch. All you have to worry about is finding one that doesn’t hurt your reputation—or your wallet. But always remember: it’s for a good and totally unselfish cause.